While listening to a record being spun on my VPI Prime with upgraded Nordost wiring, my phone vibrates to alert me of a message left by one of my dear friends who excitedly told me that he was being lent a Rega Planar 10 for a few days. Since he also owned a VPI Prime, I was curious to see which turntable would come out the winner, especially since he is not the type to make changes to his system. It was surprising to see how quickly he showered praise onto the P10. Soon after returning the lent unit, he purchased his own Rega P10 which caused me to seriously consider trying one out for myself. Due to his living far away, the only way to know whether I’d agree with his assessment would be to try one for myself. Though I’m not one to make decisions like this lightly, I was able to scrounge one up at a price that was more than fair, which assured me that I could easily sell it back on the used market without a loss. Knowing I was getting in essence a free lengthy in-home trial sealed the deal and I anxiously purchased one, wondering whether it could justify its (IMHO) hefty price. It was not a small hill that the Rega P10 would have to climb but a rather steep one; not only does it need to be better than the VPI Prime but it had to be to such a degree that the concerns over the substantial price difference would melt away. At $6350 USD (or 8400$ CDN), it is the most expensive piece of audio equipment I have ever splurged on and my reasons for this experiment were fueld more by curiosity than hope. More along the lines of crossing my arms while addressing it with “You have a lot to prove. Let’s see what you got.” rather than “OMG, a new toy!” How did it fare? DESIGN Immediately apparent upon opening the box is the size and weight of the P10 in contrast to those of the Prime. Being blunt, the P10 felt like a toy. Whereas the Prime is a bulky, heavy, and wide turntable feeling more like a credenza, the P10 is light and sports a strikingly compact design. To moot, the Prime weighs 44 pounds while the P10 is a mere 10 pounds! Of course, it is the sound that will ultimately be important but that first impression was truly disarming. Speaking of design, to some, it may fall under the category of acquired taste; some may bemoan the lack of a typical boxy design and not give it the time of day due to this. Rega’s own RP10 (not to be confused with the P10) can be found in a traditional rectangular shape as opposed to the P10’s skeletal neo-chic design. The P10’s platter is comprised of a polished ceramic that feels nice to the touch while the tonearm feels sturdy and sleek. Normally not a mélange I’d immediately jump to, but the contrast of the charcoal base, ivory platter, and silver tonearm works quite well in an understated yet elegant fashion. Every inch of the turntable screams “quality”. Unlike the Prime, the motor is designed within the plinth, controlled by a surprisingly sizable power supply which thankfully can be stashed on a different shelf (for those with limited space) due to its 3ft cable. The PSU displays buttons to toggle between 33rpm and 45rpm. There is a hole in the back of it through which adjustments can be made to the rotation speeds. Turning it on will greet you with a beautifully understated “rega” logo softly lit in red. The provided mat is significantly thinner than what I am used to. According to an Audiogon member who measured it with digital micrometer, it is 1.5mm thick. I have not had the opportunity nor inclination to experiment with various mats as my limited experience with the VPI did not reveal any change in sound (when using the same thickness). Similarly, I have not experienced a difference in sound when using the Rega’s mat versus playing records on the matless platter. It does make me oddly uncomfortable putting my precious slabs of vinyl on a hard surface so the mat is used regardless. What is striking is the difference in stiffness – VPI’s 3mm mat has enough stiffness to it that it can be thrown like a Frisbee while the Rega’s mat easily folds onto itself like thinly sliced cheese. Moreover, the much lighter weight of the P10’s mat makes it more prone to sticking to the underside of inherently staticky records when they are pulled off of the platter. Not to a distracting degree but more so than the thicker heavier mat. Rega suggests using a mat – their mat. **Review continues in next post!**
CONFIGURATION Setup is straightforward; once the cart has been carefully installed and adjusted with the provided protractor (featuring Rega’s slightly modified Baerwald alignment), adjusting the VTF is done via the counterweight and a handy knob which allows for more precision. It is understandably recommended to double-check with a digital scale. For the record, I am using a Dynavector XX2 MKII which is set for 2.2g. After thorough experimenting, not only the overall sound itself but especially midrange frequencies benefited greatly from the VTF knob being set to zero and the counterweight being used to set the necessary weight; the further back on the tonearm, the more fleshed out the mids were. Sliding the counterweight closer in the direction of the cart while setting the VTF knob to higher settings resulted in the mids being more recessed. To accomplish the better calibration while keeping the VTF knob to zero was not entirely possible with the bundled 100g counterweight as I needed something heavier, thus a third-party solution was necessary. My impressions on the Groovetracer counterweight can be found later in this review. It is no secret Rega does not believe in VTA, or at least does not believe in bundled solutions to apply a change in tonearm height/angle. The use of the VPI Prime’s on-the-fly VTA adjustment mechanism immediately and very obviously provides a clear picture as to the effect of VTA adjustements on the sound, with every twist of the knob. Due to this experience, I wanted to ensure that I was hearing the Rega P10 at its very best which compelled me to purchase a set of Acoustic Signature shims. More on the shims themselves toward the end of this review. There's a convenient anti-skate push/pull mechanism shown at the bottom-left of the above picture. Oddly enough, setting it slightly above "2" to go along with the VTA setting immediately resulted in a slight but noticeable shrinking of the soundstage. Keeping it at zero provided the best SQ, in my experience. SOUND Due to my level of familiarity with the VPI Prime and the sound it projects with my favorite records, the contrast with which the P10 played those same tracks was immediate and shocking. Even though I had mentally prepared myself what I predicted would be jarring SQ differences due to the brands’ conflicting design philosophies, it still took me by surprise. Being accustomed to the VPI’s sound, I had thought it was quite good and I do think it still is, for a turntable in its price range. However, pitting the Prime against the P10 is simply not a fair fight. Likely a testament to the P10’s engineering team’s ingenuity, what is clearly evident from the initial queuing of one of my favorite records is the effortless linear clarity at every frequency on the spectrum. By comparison, the VPI sounded downright grainy in the mids and the highs. Please note that the comparisons were done by switching back and forth multiple times over an intense period of 2 weeks. The conclusions were the result of stark contrasts, illustrated repeatedly while playing any record with which I am intimately familiar. Highs were extended in an elegant fashion and not at all in an effort to impress by overemphasizing the matter. Clear and airy, the P10 delicately replicates the highs with refreshing ease. It was truly astonishing to hear more “air” and instrument separation while listening to pressings I have repeatedly heard many dozens of times. As someone sensitive to aggressive highs, I can assure readers that they are presented in the most natural fashion – unlike if an EQ had been used to boost those frequencies, for instance. Additionally, the more complex and dense musical passages which might seem clogged or smeared on the Prime were replicated with great coherence and musicality by the P10. Another surprise, only revealed due to performing this comparison, is the vast difference in the bass. Especially in its character. Some believe that the Rega might be a tad bass shy which thankfully was not the case here. If anything, the Rega provided natural amounts of bass – the Prime provided more which may sound like a plus but it felt artificially boosted, especially the level with which bass drums are hit or bass guitar strings are plucked. The thumps of those sounds were bringing attention to themselves in not the best of ways. On an island, this sounded fine, yet when shown a vastly contrasting presentation providing a far more natural approach, it was challenging to appreciate the exaggerated thumps of the Prime. Moreover, the Prime’s bass notes sounded (again, merely in comparison to the P10) as nondescript dull thuds; whether it be the reverberation of a bass drum or the plucking of a Fender Precision bass, the bass came alive on the P10. As was the case with the mids and highs, the contrast in textures and detail was stark, with the P10 outclassing the Prime in every way. It spotlighted example after example of what can be extracted from the grooves of the same records when it is played through top-caliber gear. In essence, for music lovers, owning and using the Rega P10 is a dream. Its unassuming size belies its seemingly unparalleled capabilities as it will undoubtedly charm its way into your ears and heart by repeatedly rewarding you with sublime musical experiences, one after another. It truly is a treat to be relentlessly exposed to such joyful audio journeys on a daily basis. The P10 symbolizes what it means to be an audiophile; thoroughly enjoying an engaging listen, record after record, the experiencing of which puts a smile on one’s face, and makes us tap our feet while occasionally shaking our head in mild disbelief. NIGGLES Since nothing is perfect, I’ll warn potential buyers that the P10’s motor does not have the torque of a VPI. Due to this, the use of a periphery ring simply is not possible… at least without damaging or severely shortening the life of the motor. If you’re one of those unfortunate souls whose record collection is littered with noticeably warped records, it will not be possible to temporarily correct this by using a periphery ring. Those who wish to experiment with various interconnects will need to break out their soldering iron as the cables are directly connected to the P10, same as with all other Rega turntables. Considering the astounding sound quality provided by the stock P10, I’m uninclined to tempt the fates by being greedy. The grass is not always greener on the other side. In my opinion, the queuing mechanism could be damped more; far more. Maybe I was spoiled by the Prime which was dampened to the degree that the tonearm would descend slowly while I walked to the couch. The P10 is absolutely dampened but on my unit, only the last 10% of its descending trajectory shows some slowness which translates into the first second or two of music being heard before I’m seated. I haven’t looked into the possibility of extracting and replacing the fluid in the queuing mechanism with a more viscous solution. It is perhaps my sole (minor) point of contention with this otherwise phenomenal turntable but one that I will look to rectify at some point, if possible. Lastly, the speed was not 100% accurate on my turntable, for either speed. Although my Google Pixel 4XL’s gyroscope stated that it spun at 33.4rpm and 45.1rpm, my KAB Speedstrobe showed a far more accurate picture. For info on the adjustments, please read the review of the Rega Neo Speed Adjustment Tool later in this thread. CONCLUSION Though hindsight makes us believe better choices could have been made, I do not regret buying the VPI Prime which was enjoyed for many years. I admittedly was gunshy in pulling the trigger on a new turntable out of fear the new purchase would fail miserably at dethroning the Prime. Within seconds of hearing what the P10 can do, not only did it instantly dispel my fears, but it left me slack-jawed and amazed. On the Internet, it is customary to exaggerate the positives as well as the negatives. Those who know me understand I am not one to do so. However, the glowing praise for this turntable is not in the least undeserved and for good reason. The biggest compliments I can give the P10 are that I regret not having given it a chance sooner and calling it unreservedly the last turntable I’ll ever need or want. Really. FOR Musically agile with swift dynamics Expansive soundstage Musical resolution, texture, and detail throughout frequency range Nearly a Plug & Play setup Small footprint Bundled dustcover Sleek design (if a fan of this look) No belt fiddling needed to switch between 33rpm and 45rpm No nearly infinite upgrade path (VPI, Linn, etc) Lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects AGAINST Queuing mechanism damping could be more pronounced VTA experimentation requires extra purchase Soldered RCA cables Ceramic sections are easily scuffed Periphery ring usage is not possible Oddly shaped dustcover Rega Planar 10 Approximate Price: $6350 USD Colours: Polaris Grey or White (new for 2023) Rega | Planar 10 Turntable
Acoustic Signature Rega Spacers Since VTA is something Rega has shied away from implementing on their tablets, the use of spacers (or shims as they’re commonly referred to) is a necessity for tweakers. From experience, VTA is something that has a direct immense impact on the sound and I wanted to verify the effect it would have while using the Rega P10. There are a few options but since I wanted something discreet to maintain the P10’s look, I opted for Acoustic Signature’s offering; perfectly molded and finely cut pieces to fit directly under the base of the tonearm. When ordering, the choices are either Small or Large. These refer to the sizes (in millimeters) of the spacers. Small comes with sizes allowing the height of the tonearm base to be raised by anywhere from 0.5mm to 3.5mm whereas Large includes spacers that will raise it up to 6.5mm. I opted for the Large only to have more options with future cart changes. The Large set comes with 4 spacers of the following sizes; 0.5mm, 1mm, 2mm, 3mm. If all combined, it totals the promised 6.5mm height. I imagine the Small package likely is bundled with sizes 0.5mm, 1mm, and 2mm to total 3.5mm. In essence, the difference between the two sets boils down to the Large's inclusion of the 3mm spacer which costs an extra $40. Screws used to secure the tonearm base are of an atypical type which required the purchase of a TX20 screwdriver. Installation is pretty straightforward but only after obtaining the proper tool. 1. Partially unscrew the 3 screws at the bottom of the tonearm base. 2. Gently pull up the tonearm base so there is now a gap between it and the plinth. 3. Slide the spacers in the gap and ensure they’re perfectly centered. 4. Gently bring down the tonearm base to rest on the spacers. 5. Screw the tonearm base back.* * For this last step, it is crucial to remember that the ceramic components of the plinth are fragile and as such, it would be best to resist the urge to overtighten, lest your new turntable is immediately damaged by that operation. Best to merely secure the screws but no tighter than they initially were, at most. Experimentation eventually led to a full height of 2mm sounding optimal to my ears. Consequently, the sound opened up dramatically and the soundstage expanded significantly. It also allowed for the highs to be brought more upfront in a very pleasing fashion. As suspected, the before/after difference is substantial and well worth the effort. It is disappointing that Rega does not implement a VTA mechanism on their turntables but it is a relief that bona fide alternatives to circumvent the rigid design do exist. It is with the highest of recommendations that I suggest picking a set of these up. A cheap purchase with exponentially surprising dividends for which your ears will thank you. Acoustic Signature Rega Spacers Price: $149-$189 https://acousticsignature.audio/product/rega-vta-spacer-set/
Michell Engineering – Record Clamp Clamps are an optional item which can occasionally help with some warped records. VPI is a big fan of clamps. Not only do they provide them but also suggests using them, the idea being that securing the playing surface as snug as possible onto the platter will provide optimal results irrespective of warps. Rega, once again, leans in the opposite direction, believing foregoing the record/clamp sandwich provides better sound. Though clamps are oftentimes promoted as a flattening device, my own experience has shown that it can only help and only somewhat when that warp is through the body of the record, nearing the center. It also has less of an impact when used with thicker records (e.g. 180g or more). Nevertheless, I have about a dozen records which have such warps and a few more which inexplicably rest in a slight dome-like position when placed onto the platter. In such cases, a clamp will at least address this and provide a more naturally flat surface. Perhaps there are alternatives but as far as I could tell, the sole clamp specifically made for Rega turntables is courtesy of Michell Engineering. Offered with either a black or silver knob, it is made of solid anodized aluminium and does work as advertised by clamping records to the platter. Please note that there is a regular version for use with a number of other turntables but only the one stamped with an “R” is designed for use with Rega’s decks. Priced at $70 USD, it is my personal opinion that it is somewhat steep for what it is. Import and shipping charges are likely what balloons the price to that point as it is the equivalent of $48 USD in the UK. However, it does work as promised with no issues whatsoever. For the few aforementioned records which will benefit from this device, it will be a boon. Sound-wise, I heard no differences whatsoever between using or not using the clamp. Its purchase is more to put my mind at ease by minimizing the vertical movement of my tonearm and potentially affecting my high-priced cart's suspension rather than hoping for improved SQ. With that in mind, I can vouch for this product accomplishing what it set out to do and recommend it to those (like me) who want to have it at their disposal when encountering a somewhat warped record. Set your expectations accordingly and you will be pleased. To flatten records completely, taming thick record warps, or for eliminating edge warps, I would suggest other products suited to that task such as the Vinyl Flat or competing products. Mitchell Engineering Price: $70 USD Michell Engineering / Rega 'R' Black Delrin Record Clamp
Groovetracer Counterweight As mentioned in the Rega P10 review, the provided counterweight was not hefty enough to be pulled as far away from the tonearm as possible in order to provide a better sound (i.e. allowing the mids to bloom). In order to accomplish this with my Dynavector XX2 MKII cart, a (slightly) heftier counterweight was needed. A few alternatives to the standard round Rega counterweight are available – my choice eventually rested on the Groovetracer unit. Why? Since Rega has not implemented a mechanism to allow for azimuth calibration, the design of the Groovetracer unit seemed a fair compromise, as it would provide the capability of leaning the tonearm at rest a bit more toward one direction or another. Along with the device comes three pairs of weights totaling 110g, 130g, and 150g. For the record, the P10’s bundled counterweight weighs 100g. To do what I needed, I used the 110g set which needed to be screwed into each side of the unit. It is also available in black. Once assembled, it merely needs to slide onto the back of the tonearm. Once satisfied with its location and tilt, use the provided Allen key to gently and slightly tighten the top screw. Again, no need to overtighten! Aesthetically, the silver fits perfectly with the rest of the turntable and it does not look out of place. It certainly feels like a quality product and not only due to its heft. At $200 USD, it is not a cheap device. However, the price is the same for the competing Michell Engineering product, as well as Rega’s own heavier counterweight. In that sense, the price is fair. Since I viewed it a one-time purchase which will provide better and/or more customizable sound for many years to come, I consider myself a satisfied customer and would suggest it to other Rega turntable-owning members. One major caveat to recommending this unit. Due to the rather unique design, its right bolt protrudes somewhat to the extent that the cueing lever is but a few millimeters away. As a result, when lifting the queuing lever, especially at the end of a side, one will need to be very careful. Otherwise, the natural instinct of placing one's finger comfortably behind the lever will also bump the Groovetracer's right bolt, causing the tonearm to unexpectedly swing right! It took a couple of times for me to retrain myself to avoid doing so but it's now second nature. Thankfully, I’m not the clumsy type and after making the mental adjustment to be careful when performing these operations, I never had a mishap again. Obviously, for those with failing eyesight or imprecise movements, I would not suggest this product solely based on the previous paragraph’s explanation. The sole reason why I stress this is you’re unlikely to read about it in any other review and while I personally find the added tilting to be beneficial enough that I still would have chosen it over the alternatives, those alternatives also do not have this issue. For us careful types, this counterweight is a beautifully well crafted and engineered piece that performs as expected. Groovetracer Rega Counterweight Price: $200 USD Groovetracer - Rega Counterweight
Rega Neo Speed Adjustment Tool Belt-using turntables are inherently at a disadvantage against their direct drive counterparts in regard to speed accuracy, though some manage to be perfectly rock stable. In my experience, it is somewhat on the rarer side. Belt condition will also inevitably affect the speed – the more worn out a belt is, the less rigid it is, and the more prone to less grip which in turn can translate into slower speeds. For now, the new belt in the P10 has plenty of grip and the speed is set slightly faster than it should be. Taking a peek at the back of the P10’s PSU, the screw controlling the speed does not appear to be of a proprietary nature but my attempts to eyeball which readily available tool to use failed. The advice given by a few people online including in a thread dedicated to this on this board also proved fruitless. At a mere $15, this Rega-made tool is very reasonably priced for something that is guaranteed to fit and eliminate guesswork. Its packaging is nothing remarkable; merely a tiny sealed bag with the tool and piece of white cardboard stating the name of the item. Use of the tool is as straightforward as can be. My sole point of contention is the fact that the step-by-step instructions on how to adjust the speed aren’t provided with the P10’s manual nor this tool. I suppose it could be argued that is the case due to the tool working with other PSUs and not just the P10's but I cannot give a pass to Rega for their oversight - mentioning the PSU’s speed functions without enumerating the steps needed to use adjust them is short-sighted, IMHO. Once I found the instructions online (not even on Rega’s own website but another message board), they still weren’t perfectly clear so in case anyone here would like to use it, here are the actual steps I used; 1) Press the speed you want to adjust (33 or 45). Measure its speed. 2) While the platter is spinning, press on the Program button in the hole with the tool. The light becomes solid red (instead of flashing every 5 secs or so). 3) Insert the tool in the Speed Adjustment hole and turn accordingly (clockwise for faster, counter-clockwise for slower). 4) Measure the new speed. If not dead-on, repeat steps 3 & 4 until satisfied. 5) Press the Program button. Instead of solid red, it'll go back to flashing every 5 secs or so. Now, the bad news. The speeds are not independently set, meaning that if you slow/hasten either the 33rpm or 45rpm setting, it will affect the other as well. A notch faster for the 45rpm will always mean the 33rpm speed is one notch faster. This was disappointing, though I imagine that setting them independently would likely require a more involved design. The KAB Speedstrobe was used to perform the measurements. In my case, both speeds were faster than they should’ve been. Once the 33rpm speed was properly adjusted, I quickly confirmed that the 45rpm setting was now a bit too slow. Due to only possessing a handful of 45rpm albums, setting the 33rpm speed accurately was what is of prime importance, to me. As 45rpm records will grace my turntable but once in a blue moon, I’ll either keep things the way they are or adjust for accurate 45rpm speeds whenever the urge to play those albums kicks in. It’ll only take 30 secs to do anyway. Rega Neo Speed Adjustment Tool Price: $15 USD Rega Neo Speed Adjustment Tool | Audio Advice KAB Speedstrobe Price: $110 USD KAB Electro Acoustics http://www.kabusa.com
It took forever but the review is finally up, guys! @richbdd01 @bever70 @Echoes Myron @Randoms @punkmusick @ThorensSme @Spazotron3000 @jonwoody @GordonM @M.R.Collins @Phil Thien @5-String
Excellent and helpful review, thanks. I’m happy with my RP 10, but it would be nice to hear the P10 against the new Rega NAIA. NB. I hadn’t realised before that Michell made a Rega specific clamp.
Wonderful review sir, I am using a P10 myself with an Apheta 3 cartridge which came pre-installed , Avid-pulsus phono stage , the sound is simply stunning . i wounder how would the Dynavector XX2 MKII compare to the Apheta.
Excellent review thank you! Owning the prior RP10 model is a joy. It is an incredibly resolving TT. Any LP it plays comes through with its own distinct character. Detail, imaging, and soundstage are absolutely stunning. Speed and w/f stability are rock solid and impeccable at factory setting. I use the "RPM Wow Turntable Speed" Android app which is the best of its kind. My only challenge with the RP10 is speed adjustment. The newer Reference belts I ordered run slow, and the Neo tool doesn't fit the speed adjustment screw in the older RP10 model power unit. I have used a small flathead screwdriver but fear stripping it out. So I am still using the original white belts, which at 5 years are still performing accurately but are definitely ready for replacement. I also have found the motor needs a drop of oil down the shaft annually. The US distributor Sound Org has excellent customer service, and they sent me a syringe to use. The RP10 is 100% end game for me. Congrats on your awesome P10!
Fantastic review! When I got my Prime I seriously considered a Rega P8 since I had been a prior Planar 2 owner for 20yrs. The choice was tough but I ended up with an opened box Prime with full warranty for nearly the same price as a P8. Since the Prime I ordered was delivered with a mangled tonearm I ended up with a new in box Prime replacement for the same price. I bet the P10 is exactly as you described. Rega is an amazing company and the P10 has consistently been rated as quite exceptional.
Thanks for providing such a thorough and thoughtful review of the P10. I'm pleased that it is providing as much enjoyment to you as it clearly is and it is fascinating to read details of how you dialed it in. I am curious as to your comments regarding the counterweight: If I am understanding what you say you set the VTF knob to zero and moved the counterweight away from the pivot point in order to achieve the desired VTF (as measured by scales). I would have thought that if setting the knob to zero and with the arm in a state of floating balance it would be necessary to move the counterweight closer to the pivot to achieve the desired increase in VTF. Perhaps I misunderstand - admittedly I have not tried this [on my P8] - and, to be honest, it would not have occurred to me that this would have affected the sound since the same VTF is achieved with the knob at either position. Clearly something else is at work if you hear an improvement.
Rega VTF is different and works with a spring. It has no force when maxed out (beyond 3 grams). So this is the setting I used when I modified my RB300 with the Origin Live counterweight (as per OL instructions). Pretty sure the new arms are the same in that respect. Leaving at 0 is incorrect.
Got it. I forgot that it worked inverse. @Strat-Mangler 's procedural explanation quoted in my post now makes sense.
I remember seeing a couple of reviews pitting the P10 against the NAIA, specifically because so many of the lessons learned during the design of the NAIM were implemented into the P10 at a severely reduced cost. From what I remember reading, the gist of it was the P10 gets you to NAIM territory roughly at 90%-95%. Considering the cost differences, that's enough for me. As for the clamp, part of my doing this extensive review is to help whoever is an owner or a potential owner so that it's less of a learning curve and/or there's less of a need to explore to get all the good info in one place. Glad you got something out of it and thanks for the kind words! You're quite welcome and thank you for the kind words. Glad you're getting as much out of your RP10 as I am out of the P10. From what I've read over the years, it's quite the turntable as well. The reason I did not rely on any apps is due to the gyroscope in each phone being of different capability, even from one model to another model while staying with the same manufacturer. For the record, my Google Pixel 4XL's gyroscope indicated that my unit spun between 33.3rpm and 45.1rpm. In reality, the 33rpm setting was also slightly too fast. I needed 2 or 3 clicks down to make it perfectly accurate via the stroboscope which is an inherently more accurate measurement method... although it's more costly and slightly more cumbersome than adding a free app to one's phone. Thanks for the tip regarding the oil. I'm curious to know how your RP10 demonstrated its need for more oil? Sorry to hear about your experience with the Prime's tonearm! Ouch! I winced when I read that. Did you end up with a Prime or Prime 21? My Prime was a B-stock unit back in the old days when SoundStage Direct existed. I'm lucky that I spent the money prior to his eventual fraud spree which caused SSD to eventually close. Going from a Rega P2 to a VPI Prime is no small upgrade! Enjoy your fine turntable and thanks for the kind words. You're quite welcome. It was quite the journey but definitely worth it. Part of the reason for the review is to help those who either are considering or already own the turntable with knowledge and experience I've accumulated along the way, in a centralized fashion. As for VTF, I initially used Rega's recommended use of the VTA knob and setting the counterweight closer to the cart but curiosity got the better of me and I wanted to try it with the knob set to zero with the counterweight all the way back. Sure enough, the difference in SQ was in no uncertain terms superior using the latter method. It may seem counterintuitive but there is no denying the result. Thankfully, it's a very simple thing to try.
Awesome and very thorough review. Much appreciated! I've got the Michell clamp too but I never use it as I find it 'sucks some life out of the sound' in my setup. Did you experience a difference in sound between using it and not using it (on flat records)?
I have flip-flopped back on the procedural aspect of this. Whilst acknowledging that the knob applies a counter active force when when the dial markings show zero which is reduced when rotating to increase the number on the dial (thus increasing the VTF), I still think that wherever the knob happens to be, moving the counterweight away from the pivot will decrease the VTF and moving it towards the pivot will increase the measured VTF. The position of the knob (which exerts a counter force) has no bearing on this if it stays in the same place - it is a matter of leverage. Thus if the arm is balanced/floating with the knob at zero (on the dial marking), rotating the knob will lower the arm and increase the VTF. Likewise, keeping the knob at zero and moving the counterweight towards the pivot will lower the arm and increase the VTF. To help confirm I wasn’t going nuts I just tested on my P8 to confirm. So maybe my misunderstanding is ‘zero’ - when you say ‘zero’ do you mean ‘0’ on the markings on the knob (with is fully anti-clockwise) or do you mean ‘0’ counteractive force (but turning the knob all the other way?). I cannot see the markings you have set from the photograph of the Groovetracer weight on your arm - although I do notice that it is much further from the pivot than the (lighter) Rega weight when the knob shows ‘2’ in your earlier photograph. Sorry to labour this!
No worries at all. If I had the chance to edit the review to include this, I would. Essentially, I put the Groovetracer as far back from the end of the shaft as possible without falling off and compensate with the VTF knob until I get the 2.2g of force I want to end up with. In this case, I ended up with a setting of (roughly) 1.5 out of 3. This sounded much better compared to setting the counterweight much closer to the cart and setting VTF uniquely via the knob. @Classicrock is correct - I was not. The other picture isn't mine. Apologies for the confusion. You can experiment with both configurations assuming you don't need more weight to pull it off and listen to the changes in sound. On this unit, setting the counterweight closer to the cart and backing off the VTF knob resulted in a slight midrange suckout effect whereas the opposite results in the mids blooming quite nicely into the sound. Hope this helps.
Thanks - procedurally, that makes total sense and clarifies it completely to me! As to the change in sound, we can only speculate as to what that might be due to.
Excellent and fascinating review! I was intrigued by the price differential you quoted with the VPI Prime being lower cost than the Rega P10 in Canada/North America. In the UK it is the reverse with the VPI Prime retailing at £4,450.00 and the Rega P10 at £3,960.00 (both including tax and excluding cartridge at Analogue Seduction). I guess this makes the P10 something of a bargain in the UK. It also potentially illustrates the price changes wrought by importing products.
And suddenly I am sad about my P10 price purchase here in the US Not sad about owning the P10, but curse you import costs!
Fantastic review, thanks! It made me want to buy myself a P10. Only point that was a let down is the speed adjustment not being independent between 33 and 45RPM. To have a spot on 33 but a slighlty slow 45, having to adjust for 45 and back to 33 each time you change it, is definitely not cool. Anyway, it was great that you pointed it out, I've never seen this mentioned elsewhere. Just confirms what a great and detailed review you did.
