Philips 212 Turntable - some questions

[onlysleeping]

Hey all,

I snagged a Philips 212 turntable off craiglist for $10. It had a severed RCA connection, which I fixed in a pinch with some electrical tape. I wanted to see if the table even worked before soldering / re-cabling. I sprayed some de-oxit on the connections, mounted my Stanton 681EEE into the funky headshell thing, then fired up a somewhat decent record.

Turns out it works great! I had a few issues with skipping at first, but after finding the manual on vinyl engine, I found that the slider on the tone arm is supposed to be used for the tracking force adjustments, not the counterweight. Once I corrected this, the skipping stopped.

The bulbs on the touch controls are burnt out, but the speed stays constant. The speed adjustments do work and I was able to use a light to get the strobe right.


So far, this table sounds MUCH quieter than my Micro Seiki MB-15. And more importantly, I can actually get the thing to play at the right speed! And there is documentation, whereas the MB-15 has no doc that I could find on the net.

A few questions:

My only complaint is the weird headshell connection. I couldn't get it right because it slides into the tone arm, and when I mounted the Stanton, I really tightend the screws down. I couldn't slide in the headhsell into the arm because of this. I loosened the screws, was able to get the nuts flush with the casing, then slide it into the tone arm. I then tightened the cartridge while it was mounted to the tone arm. Is there a better way to do this?

If I were to re-cable, can I buy just standard RCA cables and solder them on? Do I need to match impedance or anything? I'm suprised it sounds as good as it does with a severed cable attached to some spare RCA jacks wrapped in electrical tape.

Also, I have seen another posting for a Technics 1210mk2. I've always wanted a Technics (for whatever reason the I dig the strobe). Would there be a significant sound advantage to buying the Technics? I know its direct drive and has an S shape tone arm, and the Philips is belt drive and straight. I'm just wondering if my $10 fix it table is as good as the Technics for $250.

Finally, the table came with an Audio Technica X-11. I can't find any info on this cart. Is it a decent cart? The stylus looks shot, so I swapped the cart with my Stanton.

Thanks!

[Rachael Bee]

I had the 212 the first year it was out. Mine had the heavier platter that got shaved down for later editions. I think I got it in 1971. When mine got really old.....I think the stop and 33 lights were burnt out, the 45 button was stille lit, anyway, if I held down the 45 button, the speed went up to 78. Weird, I know....

I had an Shure M91ED cartridge when I got it new. Later on, I got a V-15 Type 2. I liked mine till it finally started wearing down about 1990.

[Jerry]

I have a Philips 212, and have owned Philips tables since I bought a GA-312 in 1977.

Yes you can replace the RCA cables with standard cables. I had a local stereo repair shop replace mine (don't forget the ground wire!) and do a "tuneup" for a little over $100. I provided the cables.

The headshell can be a challenge with certain cartridges. You just need to find the right match. I'm using an Audio Technica At-122, so maybe that brand will make it easier for you.

I like the sound of my Philips, and the retro look. Technics tables are fine, but I wouldn't trade for any Technics. But that's me. Did you know that you can play 78's on your Philips? You can, with a belt repositioning.

Enjoy it!

[misterdecibel]

Originally Posted by onlysleeping

My only complaint is the weird headshell connection. I couldn't get it right because it slides into the tone arm, and when I mounted the Stanton, I really tightend the screws down. I couldn't slide in the headhsell into the arm because of this. I loosened the screws, was able to get the nuts flush with the casing, then slide it into the tone arm. I then tightened the cartridge while it was mounted to the tone arm. Is there a better way to do this?

The GA-212 was my first turntable, yet I cannot remember if this is possible or not, but -- can you put the screws in from the top, nuts under the cartridge?

Otherwise, I guess the only way would be to get shorter screws.

Do you still have the little plastic alignment gauge?

Be careful playing with the dust cover down, a static charge can cause the tonearm to lift up and stick to the dust cover, until you lift the lid and it comes crashing down on your record. It probably won't be an issue if you don't use a feather duster on it while a record is playing...

Also, the steel platter precludes the use of moving-coil cartridges.

On mine, if a light bulb burned out, you had to be careful operating the switches. Hold your finger down too long and the speed would just keep on increasing.

[Antares]

For the RCA's you want to use "low capacitance" cable. If the original cable doesn't look too bad, I'd just solder some new gold RCA plugs on a clean cut. If not, video component cable (the one that comes in three together) is usually lower capacitance than standard audio cable.

P.S. To speed up the Micro Seiki, you can try applying a layer of nail polish on the spindle (where the belt rides for 33-1/3 obviously). The correct belt size and tension is important as well of course. A few drops of fine oil down the spindle shaft and motor (very little) won't hurt either.

[Rachael Bee]

Originally Posted by misterdecibel

....On mine, if a light bulb burned out, you had to be careful operating the switches. Hold your finger down too long and the speed would just keep on increasing.

On mine, the speed maxed out at 78. I got a 78 to try. It makes you wonder if 78 was going to be available on the original design and one can only obtain it through these strange circumstances?

[Jerry]

Originally Posted by Rachael Bee

On mine, the speed maxed out at 78. I got a 78 to try. It makes you wonder if 78 was going to be available on the original design and one can only obtain it through these strange circumstances?

You can get the 212 or 312 to play 78's by taking the platter off, putting the belt around the top of the idler wheel, put the record on the spindle without the platter and hit "45". I keep a separate belt handy for this type of playing, as not to stretch the belt I use for 33/45rpm playing.

[Rachael Bee]

Originally Posted by Jerry

You can get the 212 or 312 to play 78's by taking the platter off, putting the belt around the top of the idler wheel, put the record on the spindle without the platter and hit "45". I keep a separate belt handy for this type of playing, as not to stretch the belt I use for 33/45rpm playing.

Was that in the manual? I don't remember that part if it was. My 212 has been gone for about 20 years now. I just obtained a 78 to see what speed it hit holding down the 45 button and it hit 78.

[Jerry]

Originally Posted by Rachael Bee

Was that in the manual? I don't remember that part if it was. My 212 has been gone for about 20 years now. I just obtained a 78 to see what speed it hit holding down the 45 button and it hit 78.

Nope. The guy at the stereo shop that sold me my 312 back in the 70's told me it was something they discovered by accident. Don't ask me how!

Not long ago I bought a mono cartridge for my 212-per Steve Hoffman's recommendation- to play 78's through my main system, and save my Victrola for when the power goes out.