PADIS - audiophile fuses

flop or top ? Is it really making such a difference ? I am planning to change the fuse of my Primare CD-Receiver .It is no problem since the fuse is outside underneath the power supply - so I can change fuses without losing guarantee - does anyone of you guys use those and other tweaks ?
If you perceive a benefit from it how does that relate vs a quality power cord, power blocks or decent speaker cables. I am interested in fine tuning my gear, now that I got the basic parts covered . First extra I bought were those metalic / glass Empire speaker stands for the bookshelves which made a substantial difference ( see below ) - wisely spend 200 euros, of course the optical effect is worth the price alone - but it also makes an audible difference compared to the former placements Okay what next - power supply - cord or line with 6 inputs or speaker cables - how would you proceed, in case you could only get 1 item at a time ?
I am eying for Black & White 1102 speaker cables from in-akustik - 3 pure silver wires and 3 copper lines for highs and bass - see pic below - ..... a SUN power line and maybe a SUPRA or Furu Tech powercord..

Alternatives ?

 

A bit of both - if you tried PADIS or other fuses please tell me about your experiences. Regarding speaker cables and power supply - any input is welcome !
Ideal would be somebody who tried out the whole bunch of tuning measures and tells me what worked best with his stereo, i.e. what made the bigger difference - power supply or speaker cables ? You can also tell me which brand you use or any other Tuning measures you tried out ...

 

pfft... a real audiophile doesn't use fuses at all! Hardwire those fuse ports with solid gold and you are set!

 

it amuses me when people use 10cent fuses on $500 power cords and hospital-grade plugs

 

I have installed a HiFi Tuning silver fuse in my McIntosh C220 preamp. I think doing so restored some of the resolution/detail that was a bit lacking compared to using my Audio Analogue Puccini SE as a preamp. The C220 sounded better overall to begin with (more "life" or organic sounding), and the tube phono stage is killer, but I heard less detail (or had to 'strain' more to hear the details).

The example I give is from Josh Groban 'Awake' CD, I believe in the first song "Mai", which I happened to use as a test: there are a few measures where there are low-level plucked violins repeating the main theme in the right channel. When I first put in the C220, I basically missed this musically important component. Upon repeated listening, it was there but not easily heard. When I swapped back to the Puccini, this stood out more.

When I got the fuse, repeated the experiment, with the fuse in, I could more easily hear the plucked violins ... is it a frequency response thing? Lowered noise floor? I don't perceive a change in timbre, but I guess it's possible. I think somehow it just allows more detail to come thru.

Orientation? Less 'clear' if there is a difference ('arrow' in or out). Internal fuses? I replaced the 3 internal ones with silver/gold versions, since they only carried some values in the silver/gold. I couldn't tell for sure if there was an improvement. Certainly didn't sound worse. I think there may be a little more 'depth' solidity, but it is a small change compared to the main fuse.

I would say replace the main fuse.

This made a small but significant (to me) improvement. Going from AQ Slate to Analysis Plus Oval 9 speaker cables made a bigger improvement.

I think an equal improvement was made in upgrading the 10 cent cap in my speaker's tweeter hi-pass filter to a $25 one.

Personally, I haven't heard a difference in upgrading a power cord, but I only have one 'aftermarket' one and it's inexpensive, like $50 or something.

 

I've never used a 'hifi' fuse, although I do clean the ones in the mains plugs every six months or so whenever I clean the plug pins. The ends of the plug fuses get VERY dirty.

 

Since a fuse is basically a 1" piece of wire, logic says that you would probably do more to improve the sound of your system by removing a 2" section from your power cord...and, you would still be able to protect your system from the catastrophic failure of a tube, resistor or other component. Ya Think?

HG

 

fuses are not 21cent
more snakes being oiled

 

Let the opinions flow from those who haven't tried them.

John K.

 

I put a Padis fuse in my Quad 909 power amp, Quad 34 pre amp and in my Quad 67 CD player. In the power amp it was a huge improvement in sound quality. I would say the quality of the power amp sound improved by a minimum of a quarter. It gave a bigger more open soundstage, better tone and blacker background. The Padis was less so an impact in the pre amp and CD player even though it was a still a worth while improvement.
I have not tried Padis in the mains plugs as being in the UK they don’t make them in 13amp and I have other audio upgrade priorities before spending the cash for Furutech fuses even though I will in the future. I think Padis fuses are made by Furutech but are cheaper.
The Padis fuses are directional to give the best sound (writing on fuse left to right). Don’t believe that snake oil bollocks from someone that has never tried them, the Padis fuses do work for the better, especially in a power amp.

 

Thanks , some of this was very helpful ! Next thing on my list will be the Padis, in my case it is pretty easy, since I only need 1 fuse for my all in one CD Player, FM/DAB Tuner, Pre and 2 mono Power amps -)
Has anyone replaced the fuse holder inside the power central - excuse me I don't know the english term -
These items like the one below from AHP ...

Final question - I use an extra protection device on the wall plug from where the 3 plug adapter for my stereo ( CD Receiver / Subwoofer & Turntable )- When using an audiophile line without additional fuses / protections - keep that in or take it out of the line ?

 

That's a one inch piece of wire, soldered or welded to a disc at each end, with a cap very loosely crimped over that (and the protecting tube) to make 'contact'. Some makes have an extra 'padding' conducting disc. Don't get me started on fuse 'holders'.

You're better off running your power through a spark gap. All those metal-metal contacts..

(I've deconstructed and reconstructed my fuses)

 

I replaced the fuses in my preamp and SET monoblocks with the ones from Mike Brinkmann at Acme Audio. The difference in the sound when I replaced the fuses in the SETs was a small but noticeable improvement. I could not detect much change when I replaced the fuse in the BAT preamp.

Unlike power cords, these have a small effect. In your system, it may not be noticed and I would not bother.

I think power cords make more of a change than speaker cables, but they are variable and it's hard to know up front what power cord would suit you. A power cord that does nice things to a CD player may not work its magic on an amp - that was my experience with a couple I tried - so you need to be able to try and return.

Your dealer should be able to help you.

 

Not everyone will like this, but I will post my recent findings anyway.

All the fuses I have tried are directional. That means the Hifi Tuning silver fuses, as well as the main fuse that came with Jadis Orchestra integrated amp that I have on loan from a friend (otherwise it would already have silver fuses inside).

The wrong position has a signature sound - thin and lazy/hazy/noisy. You turn it around and a layer of haze is gone and the sound becomes snappy in comparison.

This is not restricted to some components, it is clearly heard even in my dCS upsampler.

What this probably means is that there is 50% chance that your compenent has its fuse positioned wrong, whether you know it or not.

Regards,
Goran

 

While I agree with Geoff that serious power cords have more impact on sound that audiophile fuses and at this level it should be power cords that deserve undivided attention, in this particular case I guess it would be worth it to try getting a decent fuse, since the OP has an all-in-one music box in which a fuse would have a greater impact than say in premp only.

Goran

 

The phase issue of the plug was demonstrated to me by my real old DUAL 701. When connected with the phase in the wrong position the motor doesn't even start spinning ! When I turn the plug the other way round the motor starts spinnig at the exact right speed .... tlooks like magic...

Triple is right when he says that my FM/DAB CD-Receiver (a truelly astonishing good sounding all-in-one box) will benefit a lot from a fuse and power cord.
I will only need 1 fuse and 1 power cord (maybe 2 - another one for the Subwoofer) and of course an audiophile line with 4 or 6 inputs, not one for the Tuner another for the CD player and three more for the Pre amp and the two mono power amps.

It is essential keeping the power supply of the main HiFi in another circuit as TV and esp. the W-LAN and Home computer section.

My Hifi is powered with a simple but solid looking three line power brick coming from a single wall plug (with an additional Brennenstuhl fuse/phase protector with LED), which supplies the PRIMARE CDi10, the MJ 50 PRO MKII Subwoofer and my DUAL CS 701 DD turntable.

The TV + the Satelite Receiver - a Technics M10 Cassette Recorder and the adapter (UK to EU Plug) from the Musical Fidelity V-LPS Phono Stage are in a quad link power bar connected to a Brennenstuhl 8 input safety device, that is connected to another wall plug on the opposite wall, that also powers the adapter for the V-DAC /
the only connection from the W-LAN/PC/MAC section to the HiFi. This is bi by nature if you wish..

 

Thanks guys. I haven't laughed this hard in a while.