What's the best way to remove spray-paint from a metal tube amp cage?

[audio]

I've got a metal cage for my Harman Kardon A500 that is being restored but someone has spray-painted the original metal black and done a sloppy job. Any recommendations as to how I might remove the spray paint without damaging the metal?

[Dave]

Sand and repaint. Flat or gloss black?

[audio]

Originally posted by Dave
Sand and repaint. Flat or gloss black?


No, I don't want to repaint it. That's the whole point. I want to get that stuff off of there and restore it to it's original look.

[indy mike]

Originally posted by prix



No, I don't want to repaint it. That's the whole point. I want to get that stuff off of there and restore it to it's original look.

Ummm, if you mean "I wanna get the crummy overspray off and get back down to the original finish" - I'm gonna be the grim reaper and sadly inform you that it won't work. I rebuild/restore old toy trains and I dream of being able to remove paint overspray to reveal a pristine original paint job, but it never happens. What you can do is do some research on the type of finish the cover had (try one of the audio forums) - somone will be able to post a picture and describe the type of paint used (glossy/flat/semi gloss). Don't be afraid to get a paint stripper and remove the paint - work outdoors and follow the directions carefully. I'd say don't sand - you'll scratch the metal underneath, and unless you immediately chemically clean the metal, prime it and then put on the desired finish you're creating a candidate for rust down the road. Just my 2 cents worth...

[Dave]

Originally posted by indy mike


Ummm, if you mean "I wanna get the crummy overspray off and get back down to the original finish" - I'm gonna be the grim reaper and sadly inform you that it won't work. I rebuild/restore old toy trains and I dream of being able to remove paint overspray to reveal a pristine original paint job, but it never happens. What you can do is do some research on the type of finish the cover had (try one of the audio forums) - somone will be able to post a picture and describe the type of paint used (glossy/flat/semi gloss). Don't be afraid to get a paint stripper and remove the paint - work outdoors and follow the directions carefully. I'd say don't sand - you'll scratch the metal underneath, and unless you immediately chemically clean the metal, prime it and then put on the desired finish you're creating a candidate for rust down the road. Just my 2 cents worth...
I agree with Mike. It's the only way to make it as good as new without another top coat as I originally suggested.

[audio]

Originally posted by indy mike


Ummm, if you mean "I wanna get the crummy overspray off and get back down to the original finish" - I'm gonna be the grim reaper and sadly inform you that it won't work. I rebuild/restore old toy trains and I dream of being able to remove paint overspray to reveal a pristine original paint job, but it never happens. What you can do is do some research on the type of finish the cover had (try one of the audio forums) - somone will be able to post a picture and describe the type of paint used (glossy/flat/semi gloss). Don't be afraid to get a paint stripper and remove the paint - work outdoors and follow the directions carefully. I'd say don't sand - you'll scratch the metal underneath, and unless you immediately chemically clean the metal, prime it and then put on the desired finish you're creating a candidate for rust down the road. Just my 2 cents worth...


There is no pristine original paint job to worry about. I just want the bare metal. I'll try some paint stripper.

[Sckott]

Heh. Been there, done that.

The only thing that worked was sandblasting in a cage (you pay someone to do it) or you sit there on the stoop, looking like one, with sandpaper and a wire brush.

Good luck, Prix. I've only done that twice. I won't do it a third time.

[audio]

Originally posted by Sckott
Heh. Been there, done that.

The only thing that worked was sandblasting in a cage (you pay someone to do it) or you sit there on the stoop, looking like one, with sandpaper and a wire brush.

Good luck, Prix. I've only done that twice. I won't do it a third time.


So in other words, there is no chemical alternative?

[Sckott]

If you find anything to chase off that paint, you better have gloves and old pants, because removing that kind of paint isn't easy FWIK.

If the paint job is poor and you want some sort of natural improvement, may I suggest lightly sanding it down and use something like a hammer-finish metallic paint. That's not only the easiest, but in most cases, much better looking, especially when you buy the expensive stuff like Rustolieum (sp) with the no-drip finish. I can't tell you how many Dynaco cages I've fought with, and when you do a crappy job at it, you'll end UP having to sand it to bear metal a quare inch at a time. It took me 4 hours to gt a whole cage clean. CLEAN.

Never *&^%ing doing that again. And this was really because I used cheap spray paint. :mad:

No offense, Prix, but I have a feeling you'll learn either way. Royal pain in the backside. Easier said then done.

[audio]

If it's not going to be easy, I'll probably just skip the metal cage entirely.

[Sckott]

Most tube enthusiats leave the cage off.

Same with vinyl hounds. Real men don't use covers. :D

[audio]

Originally posted by Sckott
Most tube enthusiats leave the cage off.

Same with vinyl hounds. Real men don't use covers. :D



What worries me is the probing fingers of the kids. I'd hate to fry my 2 year old for the sake of liquid midrange.

[Clay]

Hi Prix,

My son just sandblasted the paint off his 67 chevelle A arms and it worked great.

The sandblaster kit is ~$10 at Post Tools. A bag of washed sand, a air compressor, and a real mask is all it takes. It goes slow, yet is not stressful. You can borrow mine if you want. You just need to not borrow it too long since for the first time this decade we are using it on a project.

For stripping.
A1) If you have a power washer, it may have the ability to remove the paint. Lousy paint jobs don't usually stick very well.

Test with these chemicals on a rag.
1) test with denatured alcohol (removes shellac)
2) test with lacquer thinner
3) test with paint thinner
If any of them remove the pain quickly then you are on your way.
4) Test a water based paint stripper - then high pressure wash it off.

The paint removal products at OSH work great yet are a pain because they dry fast so you have to work fast. I have not tried the water based ones yet.

Sounds like a fun project.
I would use high temp paint or automobile paint that you get from car restoration places like Steves Camaros in Burlingame or Eastwood catalog.

[Pepzhez]

This reminds me of a Dyna ST-70 I once spotted at a flea market. Some previous owner had sprayed the cage BRIGHT PINK! I passed on it.

[Gerry]

Yes, there are chemical strippers, check the hardware store or auto body supply place (some of which are even water soluble to help avoid turning your garage into a superfund site). Or, as a last resort, try Easy-Off oven cleaner (works on anodized surfaces, can't guarantee it works on all paint formulations). The problem with chemical strippers is that they may discolor the base metal; read the label and caveat emptor. And speaking as one whose wife's reproductive status forced him to unload a nice pair of VTLs, I hope it works out for you.