Cheap but effective tweaks, anyone?

[Gary]

It has occured to me that there may be some seemingly minor tweaks that one can to to improve sound quality. For example, I upgraded my internal driver speaker wire (with 16 gage copper wire - replacing the 20 gage wire) and got a fuller, smoother sound. I wonder what would happen if I put in some copper / silver wire...?? Faster base response - like speaker cables? Hmmmm!

Then Metralla said: "I heard that the Acme Audio silver-plated outlet was much better than the Pass and Seymour 5241-I". This is a wall outlet! See his full response under the topic “Fess Up Time “. (Hope you don't mind me quoting you, Metralla!)

This led me to http://www.psaudio.com/ but some items are a bit pricy! I know that audio asylum has a section on tweaks but I never really checked it out.

Now I am wondering what else the board members may be doing (besides rolling tubes!) that they can share with us?

Anyone?

Of course, I think Steve would say that if you start fooling around too much, you may be headed for disaster - and a sound you may NOT like from your system. So "reader beware"! :)

[Unknown]

Originally posted by Gary:
It has occured to me that there may be some seemingly minor tweaks that one can to to improve sound quality. For example, I upgraded my internal driver speaker wire (with 16 gage copper wire - replacing the 20 gage wire) and got a fuller, smoother sound. I wonder what would happen if I put in some copper / silver wire...?? Faster base response - like speaker cables? Hmmmm

It's funny you mentioned that tweak, because I'm getting ready to build some DIY speakers from a kit. Everyone I've talked to has told me not to sweat the internal wiring of the speaker. It's been suggested that I use CAT5, or just take some low-loss satellite cable and use the center conductor.

This led me to http://www.psaudio.com/ but some items are a bit pricy! I know that audio asylum has a section on tweaks but I never really checked it out.

PS Audio has an interesting history. Stan Warren was half of that outfit. He's gone now, but he still does tweaks under the company name "Supermods" (check AA for contact info). He's known for modding Pioneer DVD players for better use as a CD transport and for modding Adcom stuff.

I've done numerous small things and a few major ones (e.g., extensive re-working of a vintage AR TA turntable a couple of years ago, soundproofing my car this year). Tonight I'm hopefully finishing the application of a sheet of mumetal to the underside of my Axis' top plate for better shielding.

The tweak/DIY project I would love to tackle is building a turntable isolation system. My Axis is very prone to foot faults where I've used it in the past. I know a few recipes, but I haven't tried anything yet besides sorbothane feet.

[ November 04, 2001: Message edited by: Patrick M ]

[Gary]

You know what would be :cool: , Patrick M? Change wires and see what happens! I can see the need for shielded cable / wire, though!

I wonder if Sckott has an opinion as he also has built speakers?

[Sckott]

Sub story:
Well, I saw on eBay, a sub for $40 (more like $3 but shipping brought it to $40) with the sad warning that it was "broken, buy as-is". Great shape too! 100w amplified, 8" poly cone, not a scratch. It didn't suprise me that no one wanted to bite on it, especially since it was no-worky.

I plugged it in, and listened. Hmm, no noise, until you gently pressed against the cone (BUZZZZ!) This gave me an idea that the power supply was beaten, dead or...worse? (Reason I pushed, is to check to see if the driver fried inside. Sometimes when it does, you press to see if it "crunches". Ouch.)

Took it apart lovingly, noticed right away that there was two daughterboards in the amp, one crossover, and a power supply/amp combo. I saw two 6800uF 50w caps (http://people.ne.mediaone.net/seekr/guess%20which%20one.jpg). One was puffy, the other was a bit fried, almost looked like it had drooled over.

Sad too, was that I didn't have any 6800uF's around. Most of the caps I had came from 200w power supplies out of computers, and a buddy of mine had the same. I ordered on-line from digikey.com, and the caps should be here.

Notice the middle daughterboard (http://people.ne.mediaone.net/seekr/power%20daughterboard.jpg) with the two large round holes where the caps used to be (I removed them). Notice that yellow glue? That crap is a pain in the *** to get off, and when it gets hot enough, it turns brown and CONDUCTS! Well, not a lot, but given the right chance it might. Even with a soldering iron, it took some time to get most of it off. Here's a picture of the amp (http://people.ne.mediaone.net/seekr/100w%20with%20crossover.jpg), as it is out of the subwoof box, and the cone (http://people.ne.mediaone.net/seekr/8inch%20driver.jpg).

Well I don't want to come off like a show-off, but there's nothing like doing it yourself. When you plow ebay for some stuff, and you've wet your feet on electronics that you're familiar with, you learn more as you go along, and the stuff you wish you had "real cheap, right now" is a possibility. Have you seen those flaky lookin' furnature nuts that work with Martha Stewart (no relation to Rod) and turn dumpster crap into art? It's like that.

Oh, crossover cabel can be used experimentally, but it's not cool to use as hookup wire all the time. In a crossover, it's debateable. As the good Cat5 is high in copper content (almost pure), it has a high capacitence. When you use a LOT of it and start to braid it, you can put a volt meter on it to check for grounding out, and swear you're seeing + and - grounding out occasionally. In fact, they're not. They carry a charge each time you check them. Spooky! But they do age well. I'm currently using cat5 for jumper use, ie: CD cables, preamp-to-amp, and even video. If you have tons of it, go for it, especially if you have the real good stuff. I'm still waiting for my Foreplay from Doc, as the set is built for play right now.

IMO, unless it's a crossover you're building, you need a heavier gage single wire strand like the teflon coated hookup wire EAS uses, as well as some hobbiests. Don't bother braiding it for speaker use, especially since it builds a tad of resistance and designwize, it can "slap" if it vibrates (very slightly). You're better off with a higher gage single strand, strong hookup wire. It's cheep. Don't fret!

I am going to two(X2) single cat5 strands to bring a pre-signal to the KLH woofer, for each channel. Reason I'm only using a couple o strands each is so I can run the wire under carpet discreetly, and because it's line level ampd only. It doesn't need gagging-gage wire for that.

Oh, the only DIY thing I've discovered is the ties they use on romaine lettace around my Stop & shop. It's a "low-profile" velcro. Great for tieing power cables out of the way!

Cheap is good. Free is better, mine mine mine mine (Daffy Duck when he finds gold)

[ November 04, 2001: Message edited by: Sckott ]

[Jeffrey]

Hi,

Keeping it very simple, I placed Vibrapods on the feet of my audio & video sources and really believe that the audio has improved. How can vibrations be good? Please don't quote Brian Wilson. :p

Let the Good Times Roll,
Jeffrey

[JohnnyK]

Try this web site for DIY tweaks. The site has a lot of information on DIY cables.
http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/index2.htm

[Todd Fredericks]

I think a great, simple tweak is making sure all of the equipment is level. Also, keeping connectors clean.

Todd

[Gary]

Yes, Todd - sometimes it's the simple obvious things that "cut it".

I try different things for vibration control. For example, I have a wood stereo stand. I am now experimenting with different "feet" for my turntable.

:D

[Dave]

Gary,
Perhaps a small slab of polished 1" thick granite the size of the shelf.

[ November 05, 2001: Message edited by: Dave ]

[Gary]

Poor shelf! ;)

Well I have my listening room speakers on a 18 X 18 X 1.5 patio stone. The patio stone sits on top of 4 bricks (each corner). It's the most solid, secure, steady vibration free foundation for a carpeted floor. Or for MY carpeted floor, at least, which is sorta shaky (thank's cheap builders!). Spikes did NOT work! And it prevents vibration from shaking the house. It's a rock solid paltform :D , get it?

Ulp! Sorry....

And I am playing with automotive heater hose for feet: it's solid rubber and can be cut to size. Any size. Spikes won't do - they'll sink into the wood. A vibration table would work too, I suppose. I'll try that AFTER I get a SACD player. Steve once mentioned that is how he has at least one of his SACD player set ups.

The wooden stereo rack I built myself from 2 X 4 and 2 X 12 pieces of wood, usually used for building houses. That sucker is solid - you can dance on it ;) (if you know HOW to dance, of course). Room enuf for 2 turntables, two amps, 2 preamps or other combinations.

Well it may not be perfect but it's fun! I may eventually have to break down and get "real" isolation systems, etc. But so far, it seems to be working pretty good.

I also was told that you can place non static foam (wonder where you can find that?) under your CD player's internal chip / transister / wiring board. The guy said "believe it or not, it works! And it's cheeep!"

*sigh* will it ever end? :)

[pigmode]

How about if you built some shelves out of MDF? I would laminate 3/4" sheets to 1/2" sheets and build it with that. 1 1/4" thick MDF shelves should be pretty solid. It'd be even better to build the sides out of 1 1/2" stock. The back could be plain 3/4". You could then spray it with a pre-catalyzed lacquer. I guess that got pretty expensive, huh?

Why not go for it then. You could make the shelves 1" thick, and then troll the stone fabricators in your area till you found enough 1/2" thick stone cutoffs with which to line the shelves. If you find limestone or marble you could take a router and round over the edges.

[Gary]

So you think MDF is best?

What do you have?

I like my wood, though. It Looks good (stained it, etc.)Lots of breathing room for the tubes (built it that way). Someone in Italy (forgot the WWW address) suggested using car insulation. This is the stuff that goes on the inside of the car against the floor. Then the carpet goes on top. The stuff is designed for soundproofing and insulation from vibration. Looks like tar paper)

I guess my biggest concern is the turntable - it has to be seriously isolated! Any ideas out there - I can talk to a lot of audiophile shops who will try to sell me everything under the sun....!
;)

[pigmode]

I have my stuff sitting on the floor on pieces of limestone. MDF is very, very dense, but it's nasty to work with due to the dust and formaldahyde fumes.

[Unknown]

I built the Flexy rack (http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/flexye.html) using 3/4" MDF from Home Depot. It's pretty cheap overall, but the threaded steel rods are kind of expensive.

Now that I've gotten an itch to do experiment with veneering, I'd like to build another one, but more professional looking than the flexy.

Regarding MDF, there are different 'grades' you can buy. For my speakers, I bought some Plum Creek super-refined MDF. It's not expensive ($22 for a 5' x 8') sheet, and you can probably find it at a cabinet supply place. There's also Ranger Board, but it comes out of Canada and is a bit harder to find in the US. If you're concerned about formaldehyde, you can buy the "Medite" or "Medex" MDF.

With regard to the damping sheets, you're probably thinking of this page (http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/dampere.html). You can check Parts Express, McMaster Carr, and other sources for cheaper alternatives to Dynamat. Parts Express also has some good spray-on stuff I used on my car.

[ November 05, 2001: Message edited by: Patrick M ]

[pigmode]

Patrick, that's an interesting design. Thanks for the links; who would have thought to build audio cables based on the golden rule.

Here's what I may build later next year. It will be a 72" wide, by 18" deep, by maybe 9" high single shelf, like a pigmy coffee table. The top will be made out of 2 1/4" thick laminated hardwood (butcherblock style). I like to keep everything oriented towards the floor, and it should be really solid with the proper base design.