Quicksilver tube amps...

[pigmode]

Can anyone recommend or condemn theses amps? I might be able to swing a couple of monoblocks. The comments I've seen at asylum are mixed, but they appear to have an extreme tube sound. Steve?

(sigh) I'm in hardware mode. What's a good (new) tube amp under 1k with at least 25w?

[Gary]

I heard they were good.

When pricing used tube amps, I came across Dynaco MKIII monoblocks at $800.00 and the Quicksilvers at $1,200.00. So based on that comparison - purely subjective - you'd assume the Quicksilvers were the better amp. Unfortunately I never auditioned them so I can't really comment on them. Went for a McIntosh instead!

I've also heard that the 'Fisher 200' monoblocks are amazing! I know someone who has a pair. He just might sell them one day!

I'm sure there are others here who have *slightly* more informed opinions! ;)

[cadillacjack]

Since I am using a pair of these, maybe I can add my comments. THe sound can be characterized as classic tube, slightly soft bass, great midrange and impressive highs, almost silky. Mine are the original Mono amps rated at 60 watts and that is plenty for my environment. The biggest problem is finding the 8417 tubes which are getting scarce and also with this amp need to be a matched pair due to one bias pad per amp. Also, the tubes by design are driven pretty hard and will last on average about 1 year of normal use. I have had mine for about 15 years and will probably be buried with them. If you like firm bass, these are not for you. But if you want to hear music, these will do.

Cadillacjack

[pigmode]

Originally posted by cadillacjack
Since I am using a pair of these, maybe I can add my comments. THe sound can be characterized as classic tube, slightly soft bass, great midrange and impressive highs, almost silky. Mine are the original Mono amps rated at 60 watts and that is plenty for my environment. The biggest problem is finding the 8417 tubes which are getting scarce and also with this amp need to be a matched pair due to one bias pad per amp. Also, the tubes by design are driven pretty hard and will last on average about 1 year of normal use. I have had mine for about 15 years and will probably be buried with them. If you like firm bass, these are not for you. But if you want to hear music, these will do.

Cadillacjack

cadillacjack, what do you mean by"firm bass"? What kind of music do you listen to? Is it adequate for the occasional high vol. rock session? I'm getting the impression that the Quicksilver is more for vocals and acoustic instruments, which I love, but neither can I foresake Pink Floyd...

[cadillacjack]

WHat I meant was that the bass will not be as full as solid state. However, the detail at all frequencies is excellent. If you like bass that pulverizes you, these won't do it. But, they sound plenty fine with any music.

[pigmode]

cadillacjack,
I don't want bass that pulverizes me. What I want is the bass that is right thar on that thar CD. I understand that many tube amps are a bit light on bass, and that's one thing because you get something else in return. But I saw a comment that the Quicksilver can be defficient in the lower regions-- and that's quite another story. I take it that you mean the former.

Gary,
What did you have before you got you Mac system? What did the MacIntosh bring in terms of sound quality?

[Drew]

Once again, I realize that I'm not really addressing your concerns and your not in the market for a single ended triode amp, but I really needed to butt in here. I really think that the idea that tube amps are a little shy on bass is a bunch of crapola. On my 2A3 SET amp, the bass is not at all proportionately less than the midrange or the treble. Obviously, a 3.5 watt amp isn't going to vibrate you out of the chair, but from bottom to top I feel I have better tone than anything I've ever owned.

Why would Steve use a VAC 70 tube amp in the mastering process if it accentuated one part of the frequency spectrum at the cost of another? Feel free to butt in here Steve....

The simple fact is that I don't have a tone control of any type or equalizer anywhere in the chain and my tone is perfect. Especially when I listen to my DCC Gold CD collection. ;)


I have more separation between the instruments than I've even heard before.

No "air", No "shimmer", No "mud", just pure clean honest sound.

Oh, and 3d soundstage that leaves the jaws of friends on the floor.

Now if I only could bring myself to buy a turntable................

[pigmode]

I don't know Drew; that's what I'm trying to find out. It may be a case of information overload from searching over at Asylum too much. You have to admit though, it's a common theme that always pops up.

You know how it is, I'm just splitting hairs before I have to throw the ole' wallet down on the table.

[Drew]

I know the feeling (about the info overload)...

Well... I have more tubie projects on the horizon. I wish I was in a position to build you something... :)

[pigmode]

Weeell....no, just kidding. What 2A3 amp did you build?

All this researh has turned up some interesting stuff. I ran across an ad where a guy was selling a pair of Soliliquy 2A3 speakers that he had replaced with a set of Straight Eights from Bottlehead. The Straight Eight must be pretty impressive for the price. I also looked hard at the Paradox 1 kit which I 'm sure I can handle, but impatience prevailed. The world of high-efficiency speakers is pretty intriguing. I did order some DIY ICs and I have this cool brand-spankin' new Weller sitting here on the desk...

[Drew]

I bought the bottlehead paramours with the 2A3's.

I'm a lot better at the electronics DIY than the woodworking DIY, so I'm not sure what to think about the Bottlehead Straight 8 speakers. I went to www.pispeakers.com and ordered some Studio 2's and had them built for me. You might want to look at the different models there. If you go into the pi speakers forum on audioasylum and ask Wayne Parham to send you plans, he will for free. He encourages people to build their own. You precure everything yourself. The Straight 8's you get the raw speakers and the plans for the cabinet for $599.

As far as amp projects go, I've found a schematic for a push-pull 2A3 amp and plan to build it from scratch. That way if it doesn't work out, I can always use the power output tubes as spares for my Paramours. ;)

2A3's in push-pull with give about 10-12 watts output.

Then I'd like to tackle a single ended 300B project.

Then a push-pull 300b... That should get me to about 22-25 watts.

And then... well, you get the idea. :)

No more kits for me....

[Gary]

[i]Originally posted by pigmode
Gary,
What did you have before you got you Mac system? What did the MacIntosh bring in terms of sound quality? [/B]

I had a HK Citation V amp 40 watts / side (some say 45 :confused: )and a HK Pas 3 preamp. Both tubes. Sometimes I used my Carver C5 preamp. Love that hologram but.....

The McIntosh MC240 amp ("2" = 2 amps "40" = watts each. On one chassis - but it looks like a normal amplifier) has a fuller, richer sound to it. Bigger sound stage, more clarity & detail. It just sounds soooo nice! The HK sounded 'sterile" to me (sorry HK fans) and actually liked my Dynaco better that the HK Citation V.

My biggest jump in improvement was the McIntosh MX110 preamp.

With both the MX110 and MC240 (and the right tubes) the vocals sound so.... real? Alive? Natural? "There"?

If you are looking at McIntosh, I've heard the 240 was the one to get. Apparently the 260 and 275 'lost something' somewhere. Sorry, this is just what I've heard - I've never heard these amps.

Steve would be more eloquent about this....

[pigmode]

Gary,
The MX110 is a Tuner/Preamp with a tube Phono stage right? It seems to be highly regarded, and I think it could be a viable option for my system. Are all the tubes still readily available, or are some becoming rare? Did you get a manual with your amp? Is bias adjustment fairy simple?

[Steve Hoffman]

All the tubes for the McIntosh MX-110 are easily found.

All Mac preamps are self-biasing. As is the McIntosh 240. The reason lower powered Mac amps sound better than higher powered ones is the 6L6GC Power tube that is used in MC-30's and the 240. Amazing sounding tube, totally underrated. The same power tube used in all the best sounding Fender guitar amps of the era. A truly "midrange magic" tube.

The 6550 or KT-88 sound in a Mac is too dry for my tastes. I mean, if you are going to enjoy the lifelike sound of tube gear, get the stuff that sounds the MOST lifelike, eh?

[pigmode]

Thanks Steve. I have my eye on one right now.

[Drew]

Steve,

Just out of curiousity... Do you use NOS Western Electric 300b's in your VAC's or something more current? In the DCC forum a few months ago you said you love the sound of single ended triode amps (and gave the thumbs down on pentodes wired into triode mode)... can you characterise the sound of a single ended 300b amp vs a push-pull 300b?

[Steve Hoffman]

Originally posted by Drew
Steve,

Just out of curiousity... Do you use NOS Western Electric 300b's in your VAC's or something more current? In the DCC forum a few months ago you said you love the sound of single ended triode amps (and gave the thumbs down on pentodes wired into triode mode)... can you characterise the sound of a single ended 300b amp vs a push-pull 300b?

Drew,

In my VAC amps I used the stock VAC supplied Golden Dragon 300B's. After all, Kevin Hayes exports them by the truckload from China, and he voiced his amps using them. So, I stick with them.

I do like the sound of a 300B run single ended. A very fast detailed yet tube like sound. Hard to explain in words. I need some bigger power to run my studio monitors, and the VAC units do it for me. They have some of the single ended sound, and some added punch to move the air in my non-horn monitors.

Still, the sound of the 300B tube is evident in both designs.

Regarding pentodes wired into triode, I just don't like that sound. Too much top end tinkle, not enough real 300B sound for me. :)

[sgb]

originally posted by pigmode
Quicksilver tube amps...

Can anyone recommend or condemn theses amps? I might be able to swing a couple of monoblocks.
The comments I've seen at asylum are mixed, but they appear to have an extreme tube sound. Steve?

I have an MS-190 that I bought from Mike in 1983. This is a big, heavy amp (about 95 lbs., 19 x 20 x 10 inches WDH) that uses 4 EL34's per side and is rated at 90 Watts/Channel. They came with either pentode, triode or DC-coupled input driver cards (I have the triode and DC cards), depending on what you wanted. Over the past >18 years I've tried several other amps but keep returning to this one. I tried a pair of the original dual monos when they were first introduced, but found them a little cold & dark by comparison. Then I tried the Golden Tube SE-40, and wondered what all the commotion was about. The MS-190 is far more dynamic than most amps in its price range ($3000 in 1983) with high quality bass and clean, clear highs. Since there weren't but about 100 of these built before the dual monos were introduced, they're awfully hard to find. I know there is one for sale in Southern California, but the guy won't ship it to me here on the Gulf Coast. If you see one, snap it up. The last one to sell on AudioWeb went for $1500.

[pigmode]

Actually, if I go Quicksilver it will be a pair of 25w Mini Mite Monoblocs that are available locally. The shipping here really kills us, and heaven forbid that a unit might be defective. I read that the newer models have addressed a few of those issues that you and others have mentioned.