Vintage Hardware S.O.S.

[Jeffrey]

Hi,

Being the wise man i am :laugh:, i recently purchased another vintage pre-amp (1963 McIntosh C-22). Many of my original concerns w/ this unit were easily resolved w/ a new set of tubes! Please give me advice on how to resolve my final two concerns:

1. The volume pot is scratchy. Said differently, when adjusting the volume the speakers crackle.

2. The power button is noisy. When turning the unit off, a rather loud pop occurs in the speakers.

Thanks,
Jeffrey :)

[Sckott]

1. You may have to either replace or clean the pots. There used to be a Krylon additive that helped, but I'm not sure it exists anymore.

2. That can happen with tube amps. Could also be a ground problem.... Depends. My Dynaco's don't POP but they do "fade and crackle" a bit when you turn them off. It's not LOUD though.

Maybe Steve can forward this to Kevin when he's able...

[Jeffrey]

Originally posted by Sckott
Maybe Steve can forward this to Kevin when he's able...

Hi Sckott,

I hope Steve does forward to Kevin. :)

Do ya have any additional advice on cleaning pots?

Thanks,
Jeffrey

[Dave]

Jeffrey,

You can use isopropynol 99% on the pots or I believe there is an exact product that uses a little graphite to prevent it from happening again when cleaned. Check your local electronics store I'm sure there's something readily available if your not feeling adventureous enough to actually pull the pot to clean it. I just use a finestream of alcohol squirted in the perimiter crack of the pot and no more noise.

[sgraham]

If pots are really noisy it can sometimes mean that there's DC on them due to a failed capacitor.

[Ronflugelguy]

Originally posted by sgraham
If pots are really noisy it can sometimes mean that there's DC on them due to a failed capacitor. That's what the tech that worked on my MAC told me when I was inquiring about a vintage Pioneer Reciever I have. Said that a failed cap could be one of several reasons a pot is noisy.BTW Jeff, nice score. Hope it works out for you!!!!!

[Jeffrey]

Originally posted by Ronflugelguy
BTW Jeff, nice score. Hope it works out for you!!!!!

Hi Ron,

Thanks! I already have a McIntosh C-20 so it's gonna be nice to compare and contrast the C-22 with it. I just don't know when to stop! :D

-Jeffrey

[Ronflugelguy]

What about an MX-110? What are the differences? Best phono section?

[Jeffrey]

Originally posted by Ronflugelguy
What about an MX-110? What are the differences? Best phono section?

Hi Ron,

I've never owned one! Many say that it's the best value for the $. That's a pretty safe bet if ya also wanna tuner! In your neck of the woods, that might be nice. Personally, i've never hadda need for radio...... i prefer to do my own programming! :)

What i have found is that you're best off listening for yourself. Most people claim that a C-22 is better than the C-20. Geez..... the C-22's go for 2 to 3 times the price!!! Personally, i'm still trying to get my freakin' C-22 to sound as good as my C-20, much less better! ;)

The other thing i have found.......... w/ vintage gear being what it is...... every single piece sounds different. Every 240, C-22, C-20, etc. This hobby is turning into a full-time job! :laugh:

-Jeffrey

[Ronflugelguy]

that's what i was afraid of, opening another door to empting my pockets!!!!!!:laugh:

[audio]

Originally posted by Jeffrey


Hi Sckott,

I hope Steve does forward to Kevin. :)

Do ya have any additional advice on cleaning pots?

Thanks,
Jeffrey

Get yourself a can of LPS 1 Greaseless Lubricant(http://www.lpslabs.com/Products/ProductLine.asp). The best technician I've ever known swears by this stuff. I swear by it also. It is fantastic for cleaning/lubricating pots, buttons, tube sockets, and is a general fix-all because of the way that it displaces moisture, dirt, and corrosion on a molecular level. Take your unit out of the cover/cabinet so you can get to the pots and switches. Spray a healthy amount of LPS 1 into the holes/cracks on the back of the pots. Turn the knobs back and forth and punch the buttons in and out numerous times. Repeat if necessary. Well you have the cover off, take the tubes out and spray down the entire inside of the unit, chassis, and squirt inside the holes on the tube sockets, don't be shy. Spray some LPS on a toothbrush and carefully clean the pins on the tubes if they are old or dirty. Don't worry about getting LPS anywhere. It's non-conductive and non-corrosive and it doesn't stain. It's safe on most surfaces, including plastic and painted faceplate lettering. If the jacks on the back of the unit are the slightest bit corroded or dirty, I'd give them a squirt and a toothbrushing also. Spray inside them and also inside the headphone and microphone 1/4" jacks if you have them. When you are finished, you can wipe up the excess fluid with a clean, lint free cloth and let the rest dry. The only offensive element of this process is a slightly unusual smell, which doesn't really bother me. You may want to let the piece air out in a well ventilated area or a garage for a couple days before you bring it indoors. I've read the material safety data sheet on the stuff and one of the evaporation by-products is carbon monoxide. For the record, this has never concerned me as it's gone in a few days and it's never triggered the alarm on the detector in my house. After the LPS 1 has evaporated from the rear of the unit, I would clean the jacks and connections with a cotton swab dipped in pure alcohol right away and also on a semi-regular basis such as every three to six months depending on how dusty or moist your house is.

[Jeffrey]

Hey Prix,

THANKS! I appreciate the advice and the time/energy ya spent giving lotsa quality detail. :thumbsup:

Mucho gracias,
Jeffrey :)

[audio]

Originally posted by Jeffrey
Hey Prix,

THANKS! I appreciate the advice and the time/energy ya spent giving lotsa quality detail. :thumbsup:

Mucho gracias,
Jeffrey :)

My pleasure. Just hittin' ya back for the Nakamichi advice. Thanks!