Advice for refurbishing a classic receiver

[markshan]

I was driving to work and spotted something familiar on the side of the road. Never one who was too proud to dumpster shop, I pulled over. I thought I recognised the tuning flywheel and I was right. Someone had thrown out a Marantz 2230. I scooped it up on the odd chance that I may be able to get it working. Brought it home, plugged it in and it fired up! I was surprised and thrilled. Functionally it seems fine, though I only played radio briefly not knowing if there were steps I should take before extended use. Cosmetically, however, it is in quite sad condition. The metal face and all of the knobs have a thick brown film on them. It is so thick that some of the push buttons hang up unless they are helped along a bit. So I have a few questions about what to do next.

First, pulling all of the knobs and soaking them in something seems appropriate, but what should I use? Second, what is good for cleaning the metal (brushed aluminum, I think) face? The chassis is the pseudo wood grain metal, not the actual wooden version, so that should be pretty easy. Third, what do I use to clean the crud from the connectors?

Also, I've seen reference on some threads to "recapping" a unit. What does this mean and should I have it done here? What else electronically should I be aware of? How do I find a qualified local service center if the need should arise? Thanks.

[BradOlson]

Caig DeOxit will remove the oxidization

[markshan]

Thanks Brad. Are you referring to just the contacts or will this clean the face as well? (Man, I hope that is not a stupid question.)

[Jay F]

You can take it to the Listening Post, and they can tell you if they can fix it for you.

[Plinko]

You have a qualified tech and a world expert in vintage amps (particularly Scotts) in Washington, PA. Ryan Inman of Hot Glass Audio (google it). He does tubes but will probably look at your Marantz. Also, try Phil's TV Repair in Bellevue. Great guy also. He's a tuner expert. I'm pretty sure he will definitely look at your Marantz. I would definitely have it checked out before playing it again. We're lucky to have such good resources here in pittsburgh. It should play beautiful music after a checkup!

[ddarch]

Great find! Refurbishing a Marantz receiver is a fun task...I think old Saul really intended for these to survive a lifetime, given the materials used and the ease to work on them.

For the brushed aluminum face, I fully remove it and then use a spray product called Cinch. Let it soak for a few minutes, and just wipe off. Repeat if necessary. I also use this product on the knobs, etc. Has never harmed the paint/lettering in my expereince on dozens of these.

Good luck! Have fun!

Dave

[markshan]

Plinko;

I didn't know we had such good resources in da burgh. Of course you are listing guys in the south and I'm in the east (Pittsburgh is just that way). Thanks for the tips.

ddarch,

Thanks for the tip. I want to do the initial cleanup before I take it to anyone. Right now it would just be embarassing and a waste of the tech's time to give it to him this filthy. I think that is served 30 years in the house of a chain smoker (iick).

[vanmeterannie]

Recapping is just replacing all the capacitors in the unit with new caps of the same (or close) value, and at least the same or higher voltage. It's not that hard, but if you've not done it before it's probably safer to have somebody do it for you.

You might search online for old radio restoration tips regarding cleaning the chassis...it's essentially the same sort of thing. Just my two cents worth.

[markshan]

I won't cripple this thing with my poor soldering skills, but I am happy to do the "grunt work". How do I know if it needs recapped? On the one hand, I don't want to spend money I don't have to, on the other hand, I don't want my failure to act to ruin a great find.

[Rolf Erickson]

Remove the front panel and knobs and use "Formula 409" to clean off the old tars and gunk from smoke. Rinse with water after to remove any residue of 409. It can eventually attack the aluminum and discolor it. This product is excellent for dissolving the result of smoke. In a way, you are lucky, I found that smoke "applied" early on in the life of an item, will coat it with tar and prevent moisture from reaching metal parts and after 30 plus years, corroding them. Often under the tar is a perfect metal surface, shiny as new. But you will have to clean the pots and switches also. I use Naphtha solvent for this. Do you need lamps? I have them for Marantz 22XX series receivers. You will need 6 new "fuse" type lamps for this model 2230, I will send them anywhere in U.S.A. for $7.50 - -- Good score. That is a classic unit. Sounds great. Best of luck, and happy listening. Rolf E.


Below are some photos of the 2230 I finished yesterday.

[markshan]

You might as well spring for an alignment while it`s in for a refurb.

??????

[markshan]

Do you need lamps? I have them for Marantz 22XX series receivers. You will need 6 new "fuse" type lamps for this model 2230, I will send them anywhere in U.S.A. for $7.50 - -- Good score. That is a classic unit. Sounds great. Best of luck, and happy listening. Rolf E.



I'm not sure. I saw lights when I powered it up, but I don't know if some may be burned out. Should I PM you or do you want to post a weblink here? I hope mine ends up looking as nice as that one!

[raunchy]

Recapping is in my opinion, one of the easiest and most fun soldering tasks you can perform regardless of experience. Here are some links if you decide to pursue that route...

Soldering instructional videos - http://radiojove.gsfc.nasa.gov/telescope/soldering.htm

Digikey electronics parts - http://www.digikey.com

2230 schematic and various pictures - http://www.jmargolin.com/marantz/marantz.htm

Usually you can tell if the capacitors need to be replaced if they are rusting/oxidizing, or look like they are bulging/about to burst. Regardless, better quality power and input capacitors etc. usually improve the sound a certain degree in most audio equipment.

[BradOlson]

Thanks Brad. Are you referring to just the contacts or will this clean the face as well? (Man, I hope that is not a stupid question.)

This is for the contacts.

[markshan]

This is for the contacts.

I knew that, I just wasn't sure if you were saying that it was good for the face also. Having seen Rolf's results with 409, I'm going to go that route.

[markshan]

I had already found the margolin site, but I'll check out the other two. Thanks.

Recapping is in my opinion, one of the easiest and most fun soldering tasks you can perform regardless of experience. Here are some links if you decide to pursue that route...

Soldering instructional videos - http://radiojove.gsfc.nasa.gov/telescope/soldering.htm

Digikey electronics parts - http://www.digikey.com

2230 schematic and various pictures - http://www.jmargolin.com/marantz/marantz.htm

Usually you can tell if the capacitors need to be replaced if they are rusting/oxidizing, or look like they are bulging/about to burst. Regardless, better quality power and input capacitors etc. usually improve the sound a certain degree in most audio equipment.

[markshan]

Okay, many of you have done this many times, I am a beginner trying to be brave. Is this standard 30 year old component filth or is this exceptionally dirty?

[markshan]

I used a vacuum cleaner to get up the big fuzzies, but is my next step to hose the whole thing down in component cleaner? Do I spray the whole thing, or do I just do the PC boards and avoid the big caps and/or transformer?

Or will the solvent cause problems and am I better off just leaving it alone?

Also, will I be contracting some awful disease from being exposed to this gunk?:winkgrin:

[markshan]

I will say that pulling the bottom panel and seeing the part that wasn't ravaged certainly gave me hope. I see why these things survive the kind of abuse that this one took and still operate. It really does look impressive.

[markshan]

Now, about the plug.

As you can see from the photo, it was badly repaired at one point. There is an extra wire hanging out. Tracing that wire to the inside, it is grounded to the chassis. I would feel certain that this should be connected to the ground pin of a three prong plug, except the schematic doesn't show this as far as I can see. I don't have a lot of experience reading them, and I even have thought that perhaps the drawing would simply omit the ground since it doesn't "carry signal" as it were.

Am I right that this needs a three prong plug or am I missing something? Thanks.

[xman]

You could fix that easily with a hardware store replacement plug. The beauty is that you only need a phillips or blade screwdriver. And yes, you do need that ground wire. Hope all turns out well. I had a Marantz 2275 about quarter century ago.
_______________________
Stays Crunchy Even In Milk

[Russ]

Is this standard 30 year old component filth or is this exceptionally dirty?

The latter.

[markshan]

The latter.

But it does still play. Am I wasting my time?

[markshan]

How bout the disease question? Is there some inoculation I should go get?

[BradOlson]

But it does still play. Am I wasting my time?

Not at all.